The Portuguese Coastal Camino: week 1

The arrow and the shell are the route signs to look for when walking the Camino.

There are quite a few Camino routes to walk to arrive at Santiago de Compostela in Spain. After reading about some of them, I chose to walk the Portuguese Coastal Camino. I liked the idea of a relatively flat walk along the coast north from Porto,Portugal and then turning inland to walk the Portuguese Camino for the last 100 km. I’ve never done a days’ long walk anywhere. From I read and heard from others who’ve done some routes, it’s safe and a good challenge. An excellent way to celebrate my retirement! I booked with a company whose itinerary options looked good; they move my luggage each day and have booked my hotels as well. Going in mid- September gave me hope of not walking in boiling heat each day.

Most people start from Porto for the Portuguese Coastal Camino, although it does start in Lisbon. I took a bus to the outskirts of Porto to start walking on September 13. My “training” over the past several months was walking longer distances and slowing my pace down to do longer walks. But I hadn’t done any walks longer than 12 miles, so the 18 miles of the 1st day were more than a little daunting! I saw the yellow arrow and started off.

There were other people walking; a number of lone walkers, and also some groups that were going really fast. People said hi or ‘buen camino” as they went by or when I did. The sea breeze was strong, but it got hotter as the day went on. I stopped twice at sandy beaches to strip off my socks and sneakers to get into the water. My legs were tired by the time I strolled into Povoa de Varzim and found my hotel with my luggage waiting, but I was psyched! The evening agenda: cool shower, stretching, and dinner before getting bag organized for tomorrow and bed.

Luggage has to be downstairs by 8 am, so an earlier start the next day meant cooler air, sun only peaking through the mist about 8:30. This older man wished me “bon camino” as I walked through town; there were other people out fishing or raking sea weed into flat rectangles on the beach (to dry it?).

I tried asking one guy if it was for his garden, but my limited Portuguese and his lack of any English had us both laughing. Only 14 miles that day so I arrived earlier at the hotel. But my room was ready and luggage there- and they gave me a 2 bedroom suite because they ran out of single rooms! I ate dinner with a Dutch woman. It was interesting to hear her perspective about the walking and what she hoped to get from it.

Day 3 was another 18mile day, but the cool start and walking for a while with a woman from Toronto kept my energy going.

I walked with a couple from Edmonton for the last couple hours of the day. They were sympathetic about our country’s horrid political state because they describe Alberta, their province, to be like a MAGA province. I was happy to have them walking ahead as we went single file over a bridge into Viana do Castelo; between the cars whizzing by and the wind, we were afraid we’d be blown into the traffic!

By the 4th day, I had the routine down about getting the bag downstairs at 8 and getting out early. But I was tired to start and it made for a hard day with heat and a longer walk than I originally thought because my hotel was booked farther along. After 12 mi., I caved and got a taxi for the last 4.5 mi. They had a sauna and pool, so after that and a good meal, I slept hard.

Being a town closer meant I had time to roam around Caminha before getting my 10:30 taxi over to Spain. I got some good fruit and things to eat at the outdoor markets, and poked my head into a church.

I walked for a ways with my fellow ‘pilgrim’ from Toronto before she turned off the path to her hotel. It was a shorter day for both of us- 7.5 mi. I was in A Guarda before I knew it. This time the hotel gave me a little apartment -another case of running out of single rooms. I did laundry by hand and laid it out to dry in the sun on the little deck before making myself an omelet. It was chilly but nice to sit out to read.

Chilly the next morning, and the sun took its time coming over the hills as I walked. The eucalyptus forest smelled amazing,

I got into the 64 degree pool when I reached the hotel in Oia, and it melted the 10+miles away. There were a lot of folks I’m starting to recognize from various days of walking, and everyone seemed to be getting their feet and legs in at least.

The route on Friday switched back and forth from ocean side hills to steeper inclines up through forest. Charles called to chat while I walked— late shift for him at work had him up very late. I can’t believe the cell connection we had as I walked up hills and down curvy little roads.

I think my legs are acclimating to the long walks, even though I start stiff each day. The 12 miles didn’t seem too daunting. On the way into Baiona, there’s a tall statue on top of a hill. I actually had the legs to make the climb up to see the “Virgin de la Roca”. The hill was an ancient Celtic place of ritual. There were 4 Spanish women up there who had me take their photos in several spots. And then they said they should take mine.

This has gone on way too long-I guess that’s what happens when you take a rest day and sleep many hours. Hopefully you just look at the photos. I’ve learned a lot about the Camino and myself this week, met more nice people than I’ve mentioned, and look forward to the next week of walking.