I’ve written a lot about Texel, so I will make this short and tell more with photos to illustrate why we keep returning there. All the people we meet are kind and friendly, curious how we found their island (Lonely Planet). The bike shop guys knows us now and gives a a bit of a deal on our weekly rental. In turn, we leave him treats to find in the saddle bags when he picks up the bikes when we leave. The combination of farm, beach, wide open spaces and flat roads to ride gives us both a lot of time to take it all in as we cruise along. Strong farm smells, wind and warmth of the sun, great food to taste- it’s rich.

Another good week on Texel. So much beauty to absorb and carry away in our memories and hearts. Lucky us

We’ve stayed in several different places in Amsterdam in years previous. This year we thought we’d try one of the Sweets Hotel 28 former bridge houses. I know this doesn’t look like much from here, but check out #103 Buiksloterdraaibrug on the link above. The inside is done very compactly like inside a boat. You can see it and a little of the history online. It was sort of a trek to get there: train from the airport, metro to North Amsterdam 2 stops, walk 15 min to find our little bridge house. All worth it. We chose this one for its quiet and being a little apart from the busy-ness of the city. It was a nice place to stay before heading up to our week on Texel.

Since the little bridge house was on a canal and a park, I decided to be brave and rent bikes for us to explore Amsterdam-Noord (our neighborhood). We rented the bikes in the city so that meant biking with all the locals who ride very well on narrow windy canal streets and don’t love slow pokes (me). We managed though, and it was really fun. We also took the ferry back and forth a few times, and that’s an adventure.

Will had been to Copenhagen once with Charles for a brief trip a few years ago, and again just before the pandemic shut the world down. So we decided to go for a few days before heading to the Netherlands so I could see what they both liked about the city. Like Amsterdam, the first thing that is so obvious is how MANY people bike everywhere. Scooters don’t go in the same lane as bikes, so it seems a lot more orderly. Will got a short video for me to share.

We didn’t bike this time around, but I’m game for it the next time. Instead we walked miles through the different neighborhoods. We stayed in a part of the city called Island Brygge, a block away from the harbor and the very cool swimming area they have. Will got in to swim there 2 mornings and said the water wasn’t too cold. Copenhagen prides itself on having very clean harbor water.

Each neighborhood is unique; all have beautiful architecture, their own character, old and new buildings, and good food! I know it would take many more days to see them all. We had brunch all 3 mornings at this cool little place where you choose 5-7 things on a paper slip to order. Then everything comes on a platter with your choices in little bowls.

We stumbled into an artisans fair that seemed to go on for a few blocks. Each person’s work was beautifully crafted and presented. I was really inspired especially with the felting work this one woman does. She had wool foot stools, seat mats, coasters, and rugs that she makes by wet felting wool into small and large rolls. She and her husband work together and figured out a way to cut thin discs of the felt when it’s dried.

The sun came out as we walked, showing off the colors of the buildings along the harbor.

When we got tired of walking, we hopped on the harbor bus to see the city from the water. There are small electric boats people can rent to cruise with friends and have a cocktail hour as they go. It was impressive that no one got in anyone’s way. At one place along the river, I looked out to see a crane arm going up with a couple of people in the basket (?), and then one of them bungee jumped towards the water! Those of us on the harbor bus watched as the person bounced several times, never hit the water, and seemed to have a great time.

It was so nice cruising along that we didn’t realize the harbor bus had reached the end of its route, and wouldn’t be leaving for a half hour. When we stepped off the boat,we found ourselves in the middle of an outdoor bar with a DJ and everyone dancing. It was really fun, and great people watching.

Copenhagen has plenty of art and amazing design, on the streets and in their remarkable Design Museum Denmark.

Will heard about North Berwick when he went to the Apple store in Edinburgh for something for his computer. The guy who helped him lives there, and told Will it was a great day trip. So off we went on the train Tues morning for the very quick 35 min trip there. The day was sunny and mostly warm, a real treat from some of the chilly days we’d had over the weekend.

The town was busy with visitors and local folks, strolling in the sun and hanging out on the beach. We had a yummy late breakfast at a cafe and went to check out the Seabird Center on the harbor. We could see the Bass Rock out there looking like an iceberg, and the tidal swimming pool that little kids were swimming in. The tide was out pretty far, so the boats in the really protected little harbor were all sitting on mud. Neither of us could imagine how they sail or motor out in an orderly way.

The large hill, the Law, loomed over the town and was visible from everywhere. Just before the trail started up, we found the explanation of a

The climb wasn’t too bad, especially since it wound around the Law for most of it. The views made it all worthwhile, and meeting a 7 yr old black Lab named Bruce was even nicer! He sort of slid down the grass to say hi when we were sitting in the sun for a few minutes. His owner was very apologetic, but we were very happy to meet both of them.

I saw so many small details on cottages, planters and shops that told how much summer is celebrated and enjoyed there. We caught the train with lots of other day trippers, back to Edinburgh, in time for dinner and our last night of Fringe Festival events. It was a really nice day’s adventure.

Before I start wring about our week in Edinburgh, I want to say I was remiss in my last post in not telling about some of the very kind people we encountered everywhere we went in London. All of the shop people were really welcoming and ready to answer questions; and when they do, they also ask about where we’re from and want to tell us what part of the US they’ve visited. As we roamed around Battersea Park or other streets in Chelsea and Sloan square, we encountered friendly folks. The people watching was riveting wherever we could find a place to sit. It’s literally like being in a film of cultures of the world playing right in front of our eyes. Beautiful saris, handsome kilts on men from the north, elaborately made up eyes peering out from a group of women wearing chador, police of many cultures all wearing the uniform of London Metropolitan police, flowing colorful robes of Nigerians, retro Punks with the real deal in clothes. At dinner one night in an Indian restaurant, we sat beside a German family. The owner of the restaurant warned us all we may have to pay cash since their card reader was down. Will and the German father went next door to the ATM, and the mom, kids and I started talking. It was an easy conversation that jumped from them telling us about their RV trip up the coast of CA last summer, to how well their kids speak English and what they learn in school, to talking books and what is our life like in Maine.

We made out way up to Edinburgh without a hitch this year, admiring the views of York and the Northumberland coast as the train sped up along. We caught a cab to our rented flat, and the cabbie forewarned us that the city is very full, busy and has lots of traffic. Good things to know if we were planning to take in some of the many wonderful events- theater,comedy, dance and music performances that are all part of the Fringe Festival. We met our friend Karen who’d been teaching a summer workshop here, and who was ready to explore Edinburgh with us. We encountered many nice Scottish people and others from away like us as we waited in lines to see various shows.

The streets were crammed, especially on the Royal Mile, and it was tempting to just roam watching street performers. One day, I saw a remarkable play called The Life and Times of Michael K done by a South African theatre company. After it, I found my way to meet Will to see a performance called David Attenborough’s Animals. a 2 person show in which the man did the voice over like David A, and the woman acted out all the animals he was describing. It was hilarious. Another time, we all went to a comedy show done by women from various countries- very good. Our final night in Edinburgh, we went to see Ed Byrne, an Irish comedian for a very funny, and moving, show. As we walked back to our flat, we saw the fireworks up at the Castle.

This has gone too long, and barely touches how jam packed the week was with remarkable performances by so many artists, actors and musicians.

This year, London weather had its usual mix of sun and clouds or rain. After a few hot days before we left home, it felt pretty nice to put on a long sleeve shirt for part of a day. Our rented flat was on the edge of Chelsea, easy walking to Buckingham Palace and other “big” sights. It was nice, too, to walk the side streets and see how people live. Window boxes and gardens are lush this year, and people get pretty creative with displays of greenery.

Our place was also close to the river and Battersea Power Station. We’d seen the station from a ferry on the river last year. This time, we could walk to it. The station was a coal burning station that provided part of London’s electricity in its day; it’s now renovated with shops and restaurants. The tiny museum showed photos and info of how it was built and functioned as a power plant.

The river walkway goes in the opposite direction too, along the edge of Battersea Park. Lots of walkers, cyclists,dogs, and awesome houseboats along the opposite side of the river edge.

I walked this river walkway 2 mornings on my way to a Pilates studio I found for classes. The first morning I saw a Buddhist monk walking the circumference of the Pagoda. The 2d day I walked by, I stopped to read some of the history of it.

Bridges cross the Thames at regular intervals to connect to London and surrounding areas. I love how ornate this one is.

After a rainy day, we lucked out and got a sunny breezy day to wander through Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden

We stumbled on several memorials we’d never seen or heard of before, each created with solemn beauty and care. This one was unveiled in 2006 on the 4th anniversary of the terrorist bombing in Bali.

Art is everywhere. Some’s the form of posters or a well crafted shop window. And then, there’s the buildings themselves. The best images in this post are Will’s doing- I was too busy looking much of the time to remember to take a photo.

Today we head north to Edinburgh to immerse ourselves in some of the many offerings of the Fringe Festival. More later…

Sao Miguel is the largest of the 9 islands that make up the archipelago of the Azores. Once you leave the city of Ponta Delgada, there’s lot of curvy narrow roads big enough for two cars (unlike Ireland or Cornwall!). In many places, close to scenic overlooks or just near a village, there are very nice little parks with wood or concrete picnic tables and grills for outdoor cooking.

The villages all seem to have a public water faucet- not sure if leftover from other times when indoor plumbing wasn’t widespread?

We hiked a trail into a waterfall and stumbled upon what looked like an old mill that had used the river for its work.

Wednesday we headed to the west coast to check out a place called Ferraria where the volcanic history is much more evident, and there are warm springs that warm the salt water. The spa isn’t open this time of year, but there is an ocean pool that Will managed to get into at one point.

It really was a Christmas miracle that Will and I managed to get off of Peaks to Boston, and then on to Punta Delgada in the Azores during a serious wind and rain storm. After a morning nap in our hotel, we wandered around the capital city admiring the green lushness of everything.

We took bicycles from our hotel and rode up the coast a bit to explore the windy roads and beaches. Christmas Day was very quiet with few people out, except for those carrying platters of food to visit relatives. It sprinkled on us a few times.

The street art all around is reminiscent of some we saw in Lisbon a few years ago. Lots of traditional signs for Catholic saints, and other beautiful expressions about the sea and life.

The train trip from Amsterdam to the port city of Den Helder is a speedy one, through little towns and fields that boast tulips in the spring and cattle or other crops in summer. Usually there’s a bus to take us the short distance to the ferry, but Covid changed that schedule. We shared a taxi with another couple to the ferry. It’s a very well organized operation for a ferry that can carry 350 cars, bicycles, and passengers. The only boat crew we see are directing cars and trucks to load, and the captain who walks the deck to the wheelhouse on the other end of the top deck. The boat doesn’t turn around- it just heads out silently once everyone is on. On the 4th deck, there’s a cafeteria style restaurant , and many people have a snack or share a bottle of wine on the 20 min trip to the island.

Texel is the largest and most populated island of the West Frisian Islands in the Wadden Sea. It has 7 villages and a bunch of other small townships. One third of the island is protected nature preserve. Will and I both love it there, even when the weather isn’t great. This year, we came prepared for rain and damp with rain gear, hats, and a couple of Smart wool tops each. The only time we had to put on more than one layer was in the evenings, biking ‘home’ as the sun started to set about 9:30! The weather was remarkable: sunny, warm and dry all week. The farmers were out haying in their fields still when we would bike by at 9pm.

The whole week we are on Texel, we travel on our rented ebikes everywhere we go. The extra power comes in really handy with the wind that can get up to 15-20 mph. A lot of times, we don’t need the power because it’s flat; the bike lanes are incredible and go everywhere. The bikes have roomy saddle bags that carry groceries and everything we need for the day.

We spent several late afternoons on the beach, arriving at 4;30 or 5 and staying til 7 or so. The sun stays so high, it was still warm enough to worry about sunburn. The ocean was beautiful.

Will convinced me to try the naturalist beach, meaning we walked past this yellow sign and found a spot to take off our clothes! No one really looks at you and people sit far apart— but I could see that many people had NO tan lines. I have to say it was pretty great, except the sunscreen application took a long time.

With the sun setting so late, our days felt like double days- sort of like when we went to Iceland. One day, we biked north and along the eastern dike where many water birds hang out.

Biking north took us through many different landscapes, all wide vistas with the flatness of the island.

Another day, we biked a different route in the north. At one stop, we climbed the steps to look out. Since it was midday, there were few birds feeding in the closer shore area.

It was a magical time of meeting lovely kind people, eating delicious food, and exploring by bike. And a great way to end a wonderful trip.

It’s a short flight to Amsterdam from Edinburgh. We stayed for 2 short days in a houseboat again. Amsterdam was pretty hot like every other city in Europe this summer, so we were happy to hang on the boat’s deck to watch boats and birds float by. The houseboat actually had a heat pump for ac- much needed this summer.

This heron was hanging out a lot near us. He seemed very comfortable standing on the edge of a boat’s motor to fish, or the hang out near the sidewalk to watch some fat mice that would run past him.

We made it a priority in our short time in the city to get to the amazing Groote Museum to see the beautiful wire artwork of Celia Smith.

It was Pride week while we were there, and the city was wearing its pride everywhere. Unfortunately we missed the canal parade on Sat.

The weather allowed us to eat outside for every meal on the boat or at restaurants.. I love the fresh teas the Dutch serve in most places.

All too soon it was time for us to get our train north to Den Helder where we’ll get the ferry. Next stop: a week of biking on Texel.